Sitting in Mozart's Lap
Vienna, Austria
We have arrived in Vienna. We are in a nice, small very clean hotel with a spacious room but it is about 15 minutes from the center of the city. It is in a neighborhood that is not "bad" in the classic sense but looks somewhat run down at the heels. Part of it is the nature of older, European cities.
Vienna was bombed quite heavily during World War II. Prague may have been bombed less heavily, nonetheless, it has replaced or repaired its buildings with those matching the older styles. In Vienna, a large number of the buildings were replaced with those with very flat facades and a material that seems to absorb the dirt and exhaust fumes of the city. So next to a series of baroque facades suddenly there appears one that is flat, bereft of decoration and dirty.
There are still huge numbers of absolutely magnificent buildings... so many, in fact, that postcards (and probably photographs) do not do it justice. This is a much larger city than Prague, more like New York, and harder to feel like you "know" it. On the other hand, it seems less overwhelmed by tourism. In Prague, the streets were always filled with tour guides leading their groups with upraised umbrellas. Here, the tour groups blend into the scenery.
This is also a wealthier city than Prague. The products in the stores are more upper Michigan Avenue. In fact, many can be found there.
The Vivaldi "hawkers" are now Mozart hawkers, and often in costumes from the period, including the white wigs. We have been to two concerts. The first was in a place called the "Mozart House" although he only lived there for a year, but he did work and perform in a certain room, which is where the concert was held. It was a tiny room - could not have held more than 75 people. Mel and I were in the front row. It was a chamber quartet, in period costume, and they played and evening of Mozart. They were incredible musicians and the cello player was almost sitting in my lap.
Last night, we went to a concert in a place called the "golden hall." Built in the 1700s, every inch of space was covered with statues, paintings or gold trim. The orchestra played selections from Mozart, including some arias from his operas. And, they were in period costumes.
This is the city of wonderful pastries and fresh whipped cream - whipped cream in coffee, on dessert and whipped cream on whipped cream. Luckily, we are walking most of the day but even so, I can feel it on my hips. We walked past the house where Mozart lived for an extended period but it is under renovation so closed to the public.
And, both in Prague and Vienna, this is the year of red - hair, that is. Not the subtle chestnut red, but a red that shimmers in the sun like copper wire. It ranges from pink, as in cotton candy pink, to purple, as in the deepest purple of grapes, or of wine. It is never subtle and it is worn by teenagers and the elderly as well. It makes the blonds all look natural.
Love,
Janet
We have arrived in Vienna. We are in a nice, small very clean hotel with a spacious room but it is about 15 minutes from the center of the city. It is in a neighborhood that is not "bad" in the classic sense but looks somewhat run down at the heels. Part of it is the nature of older, European cities.
Vienna was bombed quite heavily during World War II. Prague may have been bombed less heavily, nonetheless, it has replaced or repaired its buildings with those matching the older styles. In Vienna, a large number of the buildings were replaced with those with very flat facades and a material that seems to absorb the dirt and exhaust fumes of the city. So next to a series of baroque facades suddenly there appears one that is flat, bereft of decoration and dirty.
There are still huge numbers of absolutely magnificent buildings... so many, in fact, that postcards (and probably photographs) do not do it justice. This is a much larger city than Prague, more like New York, and harder to feel like you "know" it. On the other hand, it seems less overwhelmed by tourism. In Prague, the streets were always filled with tour guides leading their groups with upraised umbrellas. Here, the tour groups blend into the scenery.
This is also a wealthier city than Prague. The products in the stores are more upper Michigan Avenue. In fact, many can be found there.
The Vivaldi "hawkers" are now Mozart hawkers, and often in costumes from the period, including the white wigs. We have been to two concerts. The first was in a place called the "Mozart House" although he only lived there for a year, but he did work and perform in a certain room, which is where the concert was held. It was a tiny room - could not have held more than 75 people. Mel and I were in the front row. It was a chamber quartet, in period costume, and they played and evening of Mozart. They were incredible musicians and the cello player was almost sitting in my lap.
Last night, we went to a concert in a place called the "golden hall." Built in the 1700s, every inch of space was covered with statues, paintings or gold trim. The orchestra played selections from Mozart, including some arias from his operas. And, they were in period costumes.
This is the city of wonderful pastries and fresh whipped cream - whipped cream in coffee, on dessert and whipped cream on whipped cream. Luckily, we are walking most of the day but even so, I can feel it on my hips. We walked past the house where Mozart lived for an extended period but it is under renovation so closed to the public.
And, both in Prague and Vienna, this is the year of red - hair, that is. Not the subtle chestnut red, but a red that shimmers in the sun like copper wire. It ranges from pink, as in cotton candy pink, to purple, as in the deepest purple of grapes, or of wine. It is never subtle and it is worn by teenagers and the elderly as well. It makes the blonds all look natural.
Love,
Janet
posted by Mel and Janet Muchnik | 4:08 AM
1 Comments:
I so enjoyed reading about all your adventures! The pictures are gorgeous!
Thanks for the adventure,
Paula
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