In the Eastern Bloc

Budapest, Hungary (which is really the cities of Buda and Pest):

Just before leaving Vienna, the owner of the B & B where we were staying told me that she thought we would like Budapest. It is about as large as Vienna and has almost as many historic buildings and structures, but that it has taken Budapest a long time to improve its economy after Soviet occupation; that it is still poor, especially compared to Vienna, and has not repaired many of its buildings or has let them further deteriorate.

She was right.

We arrived in Budapest by train and immediately felt the difference. The train was surrounded by hawkers trying to sell taxi rides, hotel rooms or sightseeing tours. They were all fairly aggressive in their approach.

We took a taxi to our hotel, which turns out to be in what must have been a wealthy neighborhood in the 1800s. The hotel is a "hotel-apartment" which means we have a kitchen, sitting room, bedroom, bathroom and toilet room. It is an older building and much in need of repair and the rooms smell musty but it is in a quiet area and our room overlooks a nice garden, not the street.

Like Prague, people here have the Soviet mentality of "it can't be done." We asked for a hairdryer. The first answer was, we don't have any. The second answer (you never give up) was we have one but you will have to pick it up in the morning. In the morning, it turns out that they have two and I can keep one in our room.

We did a walking tour of Buda and found it to be as beautiful in the older section as Vienna and Prague. I hope Mel can post some photos of the narrow winding streets and gorgeous Baroque buildings. And, while the economy is supposed to be catching up, there are not large crowds on the street, there are many empty stores and there is an abudance of graffiti on the walls.

Then we went to the Hotel Gellert, one of the oldest spas in Europe. Again, we came up against the Soviet mentality. We paid to use the pool and thermal baths. Once inside, we were told that we had paid for one changing room, had to share it and could leave our stuff in it. We asked for towels and bathrobes. We were given a price for the robes, which was very high, but told we would get most of it back as a deposit. (All of this communication by very abrupt people.) We never found the towels, which were, supposedly, free. And, out in the hall outside of our small changing room, we could hear people arguing with the attendants that they had paid for two changing rooms or a bathrobe in advance, only to be told, "sorry, there is another charge for these things."

The pool was gorgeous. Again, probably in the 1800s it was spectacular. Today, even with repairs that need to be done, it is still gorgeous. There are large pillars surrounding the pool and it is open to the sky. We resolved to return and get massages and use the sauna.

In spite of all this, I really like Budapest. Vienna is classy and weathy. I resonate more to Budapest.

Love,
Janet