Something the tourists generally don't see
Sanur, Bali, Indonesia
When Mel and Aaron were in Bali 10 years ago, they visited the shop of a mask-maker, dancer and teacher, I. B. Anom. He showed them a mask he had made for a play and demonstrated how he would dance with it. Mel purchased the mask and it is hanging in our home. I have heard this story for ten years so was interested in meeting this talented man.
The other day, as we were touring, we found Anom's shop. He was not there but we saw a gorgeous mask in the shop. We planned to return.
Last night, as we were using an internet cafe, the young man who runs the cafe asked if we would like a ride to Ubud, the artisans center, today. The price was cheap and we figured we could just walk around and do what we wanted once we got there.
We met him this morning and on the way to Ubud, we stopped again at I. B. Anom's shop. His assistant explained that he was dancing, this morning, at a certain temple. So, we changed plans and headed for the temple. Our driver had to stop a few times and ask for directions. As we got close, we stopped at a little shop on the street to rent sarongs (Mel, me and the driver). Two sweet shop-keepers brought out some sarongs and belts and put them on us.
We found the temple and on the second level (where non-worshipers are allowed to be), we saw several acts of the play/dance. In just a few minutes, we realized that (1) we were the only non-Balenese on the temple grounds and (2) the quality of this dance was far superior to the tourist presentation we had seen earlier in the week. Mel's camera quickly attracted several tiny girls who wanted to pose and see their photos. Meanwhile, a parade of offerings were being brought up to the top level of the temple and the presentation ended when a call to worship was issued. As non-worshipers, we would not have been allowed to enter that level of the temple, so we left.
We ate lunch then returned to the shop. Mr. Anom was there. We purchased the mask and talked to him a while. He showed us an article from a Japanese magazine about a mask he made for the No Theater in Tokyo. He also showed us a happy/sad mask he made and demonstrated the two moods. He said that when he dances for tourists, he dances one way. When he dances for a temple, his whole heart and soul are in the presentation. Are we ever lucky to have seen it.
* * * * *
When my friend Betty went to Africa, she reported that she had the misfortune to travel with a bunch of Americans who griped the whole time because Africa is not America. Well, Bali is not America but to see the beauty, one has to cope with the downside. Less wealthy countries do not have garbage collection systems. Burnable garbage is burned. Other garbage is thrown into ditches, streets, etc. Less wealty countries do not have sophisticated sewer systems. Sometimes, the smell of sewage is fairly apparent. Electricity is less powerful. Streets are smaller. Sidewalks, if present, are often in poor repair. All of this is a small price to pay to be surrounded by such an interesting culture, architecture, craftsmanship and people with a warm, ready smile who all want to know where you are from, where you are staying, how long and when are you coming back. "Please consider Bali your second home."
Love,
Janet
When Mel and Aaron were in Bali 10 years ago, they visited the shop of a mask-maker, dancer and teacher, I. B. Anom. He showed them a mask he had made for a play and demonstrated how he would dance with it. Mel purchased the mask and it is hanging in our home. I have heard this story for ten years so was interested in meeting this talented man.
The other day, as we were touring, we found Anom's shop. He was not there but we saw a gorgeous mask in the shop. We planned to return.
Last night, as we were using an internet cafe, the young man who runs the cafe asked if we would like a ride to Ubud, the artisans center, today. The price was cheap and we figured we could just walk around and do what we wanted once we got there.
We met him this morning and on the way to Ubud, we stopped again at I. B. Anom's shop. His assistant explained that he was dancing, this morning, at a certain temple. So, we changed plans and headed for the temple. Our driver had to stop a few times and ask for directions. As we got close, we stopped at a little shop on the street to rent sarongs (Mel, me and the driver). Two sweet shop-keepers brought out some sarongs and belts and put them on us.
We found the temple and on the second level (where non-worshipers are allowed to be), we saw several acts of the play/dance. In just a few minutes, we realized that (1) we were the only non-Balenese on the temple grounds and (2) the quality of this dance was far superior to the tourist presentation we had seen earlier in the week. Mel's camera quickly attracted several tiny girls who wanted to pose and see their photos. Meanwhile, a parade of offerings were being brought up to the top level of the temple and the presentation ended when a call to worship was issued. As non-worshipers, we would not have been allowed to enter that level of the temple, so we left.
We ate lunch then returned to the shop. Mr. Anom was there. We purchased the mask and talked to him a while. He showed us an article from a Japanese magazine about a mask he made for the No Theater in Tokyo. He also showed us a happy/sad mask he made and demonstrated the two moods. He said that when he dances for tourists, he dances one way. When he dances for a temple, his whole heart and soul are in the presentation. Are we ever lucky to have seen it.
* * * * *
When my friend Betty went to Africa, she reported that she had the misfortune to travel with a bunch of Americans who griped the whole time because Africa is not America. Well, Bali is not America but to see the beauty, one has to cope with the downside. Less wealthy countries do not have garbage collection systems. Burnable garbage is burned. Other garbage is thrown into ditches, streets, etc. Less wealty countries do not have sophisticated sewer systems. Sometimes, the smell of sewage is fairly apparent. Electricity is less powerful. Streets are smaller. Sidewalks, if present, are often in poor repair. All of this is a small price to pay to be surrounded by such an interesting culture, architecture, craftsmanship and people with a warm, ready smile who all want to know where you are from, where you are staying, how long and when are you coming back. "Please consider Bali your second home."
Love,
Janet
posted by Mel and Janet Muchnik | 6:09 AM
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