In the Eastern Bloc

Budapest, Hungary (which is really the cities of Buda and Pest):

Just before leaving Vienna, the owner of the B & B where we were staying told me that she thought we would like Budapest. It is about as large as Vienna and has almost as many historic buildings and structures, but that it has taken Budapest a long time to improve its economy after Soviet occupation; that it is still poor, especially compared to Vienna, and has not repaired many of its buildings or has let them further deteriorate.

She was right.

We arrived in Budapest by train and immediately felt the difference. The train was surrounded by hawkers trying to sell taxi rides, hotel rooms or sightseeing tours. They were all fairly aggressive in their approach.

We took a taxi to our hotel, which turns out to be in what must have been a wealthy neighborhood in the 1800s. The hotel is a "hotel-apartment" which means we have a kitchen, sitting room, bedroom, bathroom and toilet room. It is an older building and much in need of repair and the rooms smell musty but it is in a quiet area and our room overlooks a nice garden, not the street.

Like Prague, people here have the Soviet mentality of "it can't be done." We asked for a hairdryer. The first answer was, we don't have any. The second answer (you never give up) was we have one but you will have to pick it up in the morning. In the morning, it turns out that they have two and I can keep one in our room.

We did a walking tour of Buda and found it to be as beautiful in the older section as Vienna and Prague. I hope Mel can post some photos of the narrow winding streets and gorgeous Baroque buildings. And, while the economy is supposed to be catching up, there are not large crowds on the street, there are many empty stores and there is an abudance of graffiti on the walls.

Then we went to the Hotel Gellert, one of the oldest spas in Europe. Again, we came up against the Soviet mentality. We paid to use the pool and thermal baths. Once inside, we were told that we had paid for one changing room, had to share it and could leave our stuff in it. We asked for towels and bathrobes. We were given a price for the robes, which was very high, but told we would get most of it back as a deposit. (All of this communication by very abrupt people.) We never found the towels, which were, supposedly, free. And, out in the hall outside of our small changing room, we could hear people arguing with the attendants that they had paid for two changing rooms or a bathrobe in advance, only to be told, "sorry, there is another charge for these things."

The pool was gorgeous. Again, probably in the 1800s it was spectacular. Today, even with repairs that need to be done, it is still gorgeous. There are large pillars surrounding the pool and it is open to the sky. We resolved to return and get massages and use the sauna.

In spite of all this, I really like Budapest. Vienna is classy and weathy. I resonate more to Budapest.

Love,
Janet

Trains and Trams and the Vienna Opera

Vienna, Austria

I just wanted to say a word about public transportation here. It is fantastic. We were able to learn the system in a few hours. There is an underground train sytem called (logically enough) the "U". There is a tram (or what we in the USA would call "trolly") system.

In order to pay, you buy a ticket for the number of rides you think you will need. For example, we bought a pass for a whole week. It entitles you to ride any train, tram or bus in the city, any number of times. The funny thing is, in this entire week, no one has ever check to see that we actually have a pass.

The second interesting thing is, people bring their dogs everywhere, that includes on trains and trams. The dogs are supposed to wear muzzles on public transportation but most do not.

Finally, the doorways on the trains, trams and buses are at a level with the street or the platform so they are easy for people to bring baby carriages along. There is a "parking space" on each train or tram car for baby carriages and it is not unusual to see a carriage sitting by itself with the mother sitting elsewhere. A more trusting society than ours!

Last night we had tickets for "Andre Chenier" at the Vienna State Opera House. We arrived not knowing where our seats were. We asked one of the ushers where we should check our coats. He said, "Leave them in the box." What box? It turned out that we were sitting in one of those boxes like you see in the movies about the opera in the "old days."

The Vienna Opera House is horseshoe shaped. On the main floor, there are only 18 rows of seats. There are three floors of boxes and then two floors of balconies. We were in the first row of boxes, fairly close to the stage. Within each box, there are three rows of seats. Mel and I had tickets for the second row. Guess what? The people in the first row did not show up so we moved forward into their seats. Unbelievable.

We were not familiar with the opera but the Vienna State Opera House has equipped the back of each seat or the arm rest in front of the boxes with small screens that carry translations of the words being sung, including an English version.

An unforgettable evening.

Tonight we are going to dinner with some people we met here and tomorrow we take the train for Budapest. We may try to squeeze in just one more activity on the morning before we leave - watching a rehearsal of the famous Lippizaner horses.
Love,
Janet

Sitting in Mozart's Lap

Vienna, Austria

We have arrived in Vienna. We are in a nice, small very clean hotel with a spacious room but it is about 15 minutes from the center of the city. It is in a neighborhood that is not "bad" in the classic sense but looks somewhat run down at the heels. Part of it is the nature of older, European cities.

Vienna was bombed quite heavily during World War II. Prague may have been bombed less heavily, nonetheless, it has replaced or repaired its buildings with those matching the older styles. In Vienna, a large number of the buildings were replaced with those with very flat facades and a material that seems to absorb the dirt and exhaust fumes of the city. So next to a series of baroque facades suddenly there appears one that is flat, bereft of decoration and dirty.

There are still huge numbers of absolutely magnificent buildings... so many, in fact, that postcards (and probably photographs) do not do it justice. This is a much larger city than Prague, more like New York, and harder to feel like you "know" it. On the other hand, it seems less overwhelmed by tourism. In Prague, the streets were always filled with tour guides leading their groups with upraised umbrellas. Here, the tour groups blend into the scenery.

This is also a wealthier city than Prague. The products in the stores are more upper Michigan Avenue. In fact, many can be found there.

The Vivaldi "hawkers" are now Mozart hawkers, and often in costumes from the period, including the white wigs. We have been to two concerts. The first was in a place called the "Mozart House" although he only lived there for a year, but he did work and perform in a certain room, which is where the concert was held. It was a tiny room - could not have held more than 75 people. Mel and I were in the front row. It was a chamber quartet, in period costume, and they played and evening of Mozart. They were incredible musicians and the cello player was almost sitting in my lap.

Last night, we went to a concert in a place called the "golden hall." Built in the 1700s, every inch of space was covered with statues, paintings or gold trim. The orchestra played selections from Mozart, including some arias from his operas. And, they were in period costumes.

This is the city of wonderful pastries and fresh whipped cream - whipped cream in coffee, on dessert and whipped cream on whipped cream. Luckily, we are walking most of the day but even so, I can feel it on my hips. We walked past the house where Mozart lived for an extended period but it is under renovation so closed to the public.

And, both in Prague and Vienna, this is the year of red - hair, that is. Not the subtle chestnut red, but a red that shimmers in the sun like copper wire. It ranges from pink, as in cotton candy pink, to purple, as in the deepest purple of grapes, or of wine. It is never subtle and it is worn by teenagers and the elderly as well. It makes the blonds all look natural.

Love,
Janet

Making a Comment on the Blog - Your Challenge

OK Linda - I just made a comment on the blog and it is so incredibly easy. Do it just to prove you can. Here is how - step, by step. I am sure it is just a matter of a little thing you are doing or not doing:

1. Click comment line at end of any posting. It may say "0 comment" or "2 comments" for example - click this link. Click in the box for your comment and type whatever you want for your comment
3. Under choose your identity at bottom - select "other"
4. That opens up a box with a line that says name - type in Linda. Forget the other blank for web address.
5. Then - you are NOT through until you click "publish your post" Then wait until the screen changes and you are through. This may take a few seconds.

I will be watching for your comment.

Love - good luck,

Mel